Internet Surfer 2.0/Internet Surfer 2.0 (Wayzata Technology) (1996).iso/pc/text/mac/faqs.483

Text File | 1996-02-12 | 28KB | 645 lines

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS);faqs.483



Q:  How many snow tires should I buy, and if I buy 2, which end of the
    car should I put them on?

A:  In short, 4, and both ends.  To explain, many drivers in areas that don't
    get excessive snow or who don't drive agressively (or at all) in snow
    conditions get away with only two snows on the drive wheels, but there
    are circumstances where this can be dangerous practice.  With a rear
    wheel drive car, you can choose between being able to start the car
    going (a function of the rear axle) or stopping and turning the car
    (a function of the front axle.)  In a front wheel drive car, you start,
    stop, and turn with the front end.  The primary risk of putting the
    snow tires on the front only is that if you have to put on the brakes
    while going downhill, you run a serious risk of going downhill backwards.

Radar Detectors and Speed Limits:

Q:  Why aren't there any comments on Radar Detectors and Speed Limits
    in this Q&A posting?

A:  Because questions about detectors and speed limits crossposted between
    misc.consumers and rec.autos.* always start long, tedious, and pointless
    flame wars.  If you want to talk about either of these topics, please
    subscribe to rec.autos or alt.flame and keep it there.

Safety Equipment:

Q:  Do airbags really work?

A:  Preliminary statistics suggest the following:  Airbags work much
    better than no belts; good 3 point belts alone work much better than
    Airbags alone, and AirBags + 3 point belts work slightly better than
    3 point belts alone.  The con to airbags is that some designs tend
    to burn the driver's hands when venting the byproducts of the
    explosion that occurs inside the bag, and that some designs (but
    not all) may knock the driver's hands from the wheel, making retention
    of control of the vehicle after the bag deflates more difficult.

Brake Questions:

Q:  Do I always need to get the rotors on my disk brakes turned?  Midas
    always wants to do this.

A:  No.  There are specific conditions that mandate turning or replacing
    rotors; some shops try and make a little extra money by replacing rotors
    more often than is strictly necessary.  if the rotors are not warped
    warped, and only lightly grooved, then there is no need to replace or
    to turn them.  Note also that some rotors (the rotors on many Hondas
    are a good example) are so narrow to begin with that it is not practical
    to turn them; they must be replaced when they become too thin, warped,
    or badly grooved.

Q:  How often should I replace my brake fluid?

A:  Probably more often than you do.  Traditional brake fluids tend to
    absorb water; this water can corrode internal parts of the brake
    system and also lower the boiling point of the fluid.  DOT-3 type
    fluids are least sensitive to boiling point problems, and are common
    in older Detroit iron where brake fluid is generally ignored for 10+
    years by zero maintenence owners.  While this practice is not
    recommended, it can be gotten away with.  DOT-4 type fluids offer
    _much_ improved brake pedal feel, but absorb water more readily and
    must be changed more often; their performance when wet degrades more
    rapidly than DOT-3 type fluids.  Once a year is recommended for DOT-4
    fluids, although agressive drivers may profit by changing out fluid
    more frequently, or at least bleeding a modest amount of fluid out of
    the brake calipers fairly regularly.  DOT-5 (e.g., silicone) fluids
    are another matter, which is addressed in the next article.

Q:  What about Silicone (DOT-5) brake fluids?

A:  Silicone fluids are a tricky proposition.  Unlike DOT-3 and DOT-4
    fluids, they do not absorb water at all.  While this may sound like
    a feature, the problem is that any water present pools up in such
    systems, interfering with braking performance and corroding any metals
    at the spot where the pooling is occuring.  The water will tend to
    migrate downwards in the braking system to the brake calipers, where
    most of the corrosion occurs.

    Because of this phenomenon, it is essential when converting to
    Silicone to empty the entire brake system and flush it throughly
    beforehand; some even recommend replacing all rubber parts in the
    brake system when converting to DOT-5 fluids.

    Two other issues that come up with silicone fluids:  1) they are
    difficult to pour cleanly (that is, without air bubbles), which
    interferes with getting a good brake pedal feel, and 2) while they
    generally have much higher boiling points than DOT-4 fluids, they
    do have high temperature failure modes which are indistinguishable
    in effect from boiling DOT-4 fluids.  DOT-5 fluids may make sense
    in some street car applications, but they are certainly not
    recommended for high performance driving applications, and the
    economics are questionable for street use.

Q:  ABS is available on some of the cars I'm looking at, but it costs
    more.  Is it worth it?

A:  This does not have a cut and dried answer; therefore, this answer will
    be quite long in order to cover the pros and cons.  The short answer
    is that ABS costs more, both initially, and to maintain, will generally
    work better for the `average driver' (that is to say, a driver who does
    not have extensive experience in high performance driving techniques),
    and may require the `unlearning' of some obsolete braking techniques
    like pump braking which should be unlearned in any case.

    Now for the long answer.  ABS works by monitering the wheels of the
    car, looking for signs of locked brakes.  It may or may not be able
    be able to distinguish between the different wheels (there are several
    systems on the market.)  It cannot detect impending lockup (which is
    what you would really want in an ideal world), but only the existence
    of lockup.  The sensors used vary; some of the less well designed
    sensors are sensitive to tire size, and to brake pad material, and
    may cease to function properly if the owner deviates from original
    equipment or OE-equivalent components.

    When the sensors detect lockup, the ABS system responds by unlocking
    the brakes (either individually, or all at once, depending on the
    system.)  If the driver keeps their foot firmly planted, the ABS
    will end up cycling between the locked and unlocked states (if a
    sensor existed that could detect _impending lockup_, then we could
    sit right at that point, which is where maximum braking effect is
    achieved.)  This pulsing can often be felt in the brake pedal, as
    the system cycles.  The percentage of the time that the brakes are
    truly engaged is called the `duty cycle'; typically in an ABS system
    this is about 40%  On dry pavement, a trained driver can beat this
    duty cycle quite reliably using a technique called threshold braking;
    on wet pavement, braking is so chancy that ABS will outperform
    threshold braking nearly every time.  Unfortunately, on mud and on
    snow, often maximum braking effect can be acheived with the brakes
    locked; only Audi, of the manufacturers producing ABS-equipped cars,
    has seen fit to provide a disable switch for the ABS system for this
    eventuality.

    A particularly important feature of ABS is that it preserves
    steering control.  This is the case simply because, if you are
    braking near the limit and turn the wheel, the ABS will release
    the brakes if it sees steering-triggered lockup, and back off
    on the percentage of the time that the brakes are applied.
    Braking distances will lengthen accordingly.

    An important caution:  ABS cannot exceed the maximum theoretical
    braking force in any given situation; if you start sliding on
    glare ice, don't expect an ABS system to help you out very much.
    The coefficient of friction is not changed by the presence of an
    ABS system in your car.

    As far as maintenence goes, in addition to the potential
    restrictions I've listed above, you have to worry about the
    following:  1) parts costs are much higher; the OE master cylinder
    for my obscure european sedan lists for $185, but the OE master
    cylinder for the ABS-equipped version of the same car lists for
    over $1000.  Most manufacturers explicitly forbid use of DOT-5
    (silicone) brake fluids in ABS-equipped vehicles.  Because of
    the potential cost of replacement of corroded brake system
    components, regular (I suggest annual) replacement of brake fluid
    becomes very important.

Q:  What about this threshold braking business?

A:  [normally, I'd not put this in the consumers Q&A, but recent
    publicity about a number of accidents involving police drivers
    in ABS-equipped Chevy Caprices suggests that this section is
    needed here -- rpw]

    Threshold braking is a technique practiced by all serious high
    performance drivers; if made a habit, it replaces the `stab
    the pedal and lock 'em up' panic habit entirely, and is much
    to be prefered.  Basically, the premise is that tires generate
    maximum braking force when they have just started to slide, but
    just before the wheels lock up entirely.  Drivers who threshold
    brake learn to feel what this `threshold' feels like, and learn
    to search for it and hit it on the application of the brake
    pedal.  In many cars, you can feel that you are near the
    threshold when the pedal starts to firm up as you depress it.
    In any case, if you can't hear the tires whine just a bit, you're
    not very near the threshold.

    In a car with ABS, often there is a twinge in the pedal just
    before the system starts cycling; if the driver backs off on
    the pedal just a tad when the twinge is felt, then they are very
    close to the threshold and they'll probably achieve better
    stopping distances than if they just punched it and let the ABS
    take over.

    Recently, there has been a rash of publicity over a number of
    accidents, and one death, involving police cars equipped with
    ABS systems.  The police departments in question quickly blamed
    the new ABS systems, but according to Autoweek magazine, it now
    seems clear that the problem was a lack of training; none of the
    involved officers had any recent performance driving training.
    There is reason to believe that the drivers reacted to the pulsing
    brake pedal by `pump braking', an old and discredited technique
    of stabbing and releasing the brake pedal, the goal being to
    try and get brakes back with a failing hydraulic system.  If you
    think about it for a minute, you'll realize that pump braking must
    cut the effective operation of a working brake system by at least
    1/2, so if you cut the 40% duty cycle of an ABS system by that
    much, you are giving up most of your brakes for the wrong reason.
    Threshold braking has the advantage in that it is an effective
    and useful technique regardless of whether your car has ABS; if
    you do fear a failed hydraulic system, then one or two stabs at
    the pedal will be sufficient.

Gas Questions:

Q:  Does High Octane gasoline help?

A:  Maybe, maybe not.  Some cars have knock sensors, and can adjust the
    engine timing or turbocharger boost to suit the gasoline being used.
    On most cars, however, you should use the cheapest gas that makes your
    car run well.  Check your owner's manual for details on what your car
    needs.

Q:  My car was made for leaded gasoline.  Will unleaded gas hurt it?

A:  It is possible that unleaded gas may *slightly* increase valve wear,
    although the Amoco Oil company argues otherwise.  The actual increase
    in valve wear will be almost unnoticeable, however, as modern leaded
    gasolines actually contain very little lead.  You should, however,
    check your owner's manual; many cars from the early 1970s do not
    actually require leaded gasoline.

Q:  Do fuel treatments help?  What kind should I use?

A:  Some do and some don't.  During the winter, it is a good idea to use
    dry gas; however, some may be harmful to fuel injection systems.
    Never use an additive containing Methanol (sometimes called Methyl
    Alcohol); such additives may damage fuel systems in cars with carbs
    and almost certainly will damage cars with fuel injection.

    Manufacturer's opinions vary on additives containing Ethanol (sometimes
    called Ethyl Alcohol); if your car has fuel injection, check the owner's
    manual on your car before  using these.  Most manufacturers consider
    10% Ethanol acceptable in gasoline.  Additives with Isopropyl Alcohol
    (Isopropanol), and Petroleum  Distillates are fine in fuel injected
    cars.

    An occasional bottle of fuel injector cleaner is helpful in cars with
    fuel injectors, although many premium gasolines contain detergents that
    do the same job.  Some off brands of fuel injector cleaners contain
    Ethanol or Methanol; always check the ingredients before putting anything
    in your gas tank.

    There are a small number of particularly good additives; these are
    noticeably more expensive that the run-of-the-mill ones, but work
    much, much better.  Among these are Chevron Techron, Redline SL-1,
    Wurth `Lubrimoly Ventil Sauber', and BG 44K.  A bottle of one of these,
    once every six months, is highly recommended.

Q:  What about detergent gasolines?

A:  The quality of detergent packages in gasolines varies somewhat; BMW
    has instituted a testing program, and gasoline brands which pass this
    test may advertise that fact.  Stickers indicating passage of the test
    are now beginning to appear on fuel pumps at gas stations.  If such
    gasolines are used, then fuel injector cleaners are probably optional.
    Beforewarned that while use of BMW approved gasolines will keep a clean
    engine clean, they may not clean a motor with bad valve deposits.

Lubrication Questions:

Q:  What do the numbers and letters in a motor oil designation mean?

A:  There are several different items encoded.  There is a two-letter
    code indicating the type of detergent package that the manufacturer
    uses in the oil; this looks like SE,SF,CD or such.  The S codes are
    for gasoline engine applications; the C codes are for diesel engine
    applications.  The second letter is assigned in sequence as new levels
    of protection are developed; thus SF is considered better than SE,
    SE is considered better than SD, and so forth.

    The more noticeable designation is the oil weight.  This is either
    a single number (e.g., 30 weight) or a pair of numbers separated by
    the letter W (e.g., 10W30.)  The latter type is much more commonly
    used these days, and are the only type that most automobile
    manufacturers specify in operators manuals.  The first number in the
    designation (10W) is the apparent viscosity of the oil when it is cold;
    the W stands for `winter'.  The second number (30) is the viscosity
    of the oil when hot.  There is a trick here; the oil doesn't actually
    get thicker (turn from 10 weight to 30 weight) as it gets hotter.  What
    is actually happening is that when the oil is cold, it has the viscosity
    of a cold 10 weight oil.  as it gets hotter, it doesn't get thin as fast
    as a 10W oil would; by the time it is up to temperature, it has the
    viscosity of a hot 30 weight oil.

    Note that these numbers actually specify ranges of viscosities; not
    all 10W oils have exactly the same viscosity when cold, and not all
    30 weight oils have the same viscosity when hot.  Note also that the
    novel behaviour of multi-grade oils is caused by additives, and it has
    been reported that with the sole exception of Castrol GTX, 10W40 oils
    do not retain their multi-grade characteristics well over time.  10W30,
    15W40, and 20W50 oils work very well, though.

Q:  Are `quick lube' places any good?

A:  Some do adequate work, but there are quite a few incompetent ones out
    there.  Let the buyer beware, watch them while they work, make sure
    that they don't overtorque the oil drain plug, and keep your hand on
    your wallet at all times.

Q:  Are oil additives like Slick-50 or Tufoil any good?

A:  Slick-50 and Tufoil are PTFE-based additives.  Many of these have
    come onto the market recently; they are different from the moly-based
    additives that have been around since the early 50's.  PTFE is the
    chemical name for Teflon(TM), a trademark owned by DuPont.  DuPont
    does not allow the name Teflon to be used in advertisements for
    Slick-50; nor do they allow it to be used for Tufoil.  in general,
    auto manufacturers do not recommend use of these products.  Most USENET
    responses to questions on these additives are favorable (slight
    increase of MPG after application, smoother revving) but long term
    results (whether PTFE additives are effective after 5K miles) are
    debatable.  Some manufacturers (such as Saab) claim that either the
    product or the engine flush that preceeds application causes
    deterioration of the oil seals and eventual leakage.  This writer has
    been cautioned by a Slick-50 Dealer (!) that Slick-50 should _not_
    be used in Japanese motors, as it may clog the oil return passages
    in the engine.  Otherwise, there are no known reports of damage
    caused by PTFE additives.

Q:  Do synthetic oils really work?

A:  Yes, but.  More specifically, most auto manufactuers accept synthetics,
    but disagree with the extremely long oil change intervals claimed by
    oil manufacturers.  Auto manufacturers recommend that you continue to
    change oil at the intervals recommended in the owners manual for your
    car.  Even if you decide to try the longer intervals, at least change
    the oil filter at regular intervals, as synthetics get just as dirty
    as conventional oils.

    Synthetic gear lubricants for manual transmissions are another matter
    entirely; Amsoil, Redline, and AGIP are very highly regarded and very
    effective.  Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube gets mixed reviews, however.

Q:  Manufacturers are specifying longer and longer oil change intervals.
    How often should I change my oil?

A:  It depends on how you drive.  If your car always (or nearly always)
    gets warmed up, and you don't drive it very hard and keep the revs
    down, the manufacturer's recommendation is probably fine.  If, however,
    you drive it hard, drive it at high revs, or alternatively, if you
    only drive it to and from the supermarket so that it doesn't get up
    to temperature, then you may wish to change oil much more often,
    perhaps at 3000 mile intervals (given that most manufacturers are
    now specifying 7500 mile intervals.)  If you don't drive your car
    much at all (say 7500 miles a year), then you probably want to change
    oil every six months anyway.  If you are storing a car during the winter,
    then change oil before storing it and change oil when you bring it out
    of storage.

Misc. Questions:

Q:  My car has a timing belt.  I hear that bad things happen when they
    break.  What's the story?

A:  It depends on the internal design of the motor.  Early Ford Escorts,
    for example, will suffer severe valve damage if the belt brakes, but
    the newer cars will just require a tow and installation of a new belt.
    Some Honda motors will not be damaged, but others will be.

    If no replacement interval is specified for your car, then change the
    belt at least every 60,000 miles; some cars may require more frequent
    replacement.  Ask your dealer or independent mechanic.  Also, ask if
    there are any related repairs that should take place at the same time
    (for example, the same Ford Escorts that suffer valve damage also have
    a timing belt driven water pump, which has been known to seize,
    destroying the timing belt, and which then causes major valve damage
    as a side effect.)

Q:  What causes Unintended Acceleration?

A:  The final report of the National Highway, Transportation, and Safety
    Administration concluded that unintended acceleration could not be
    caused by any mechanical failure of the vehicle in question and at the
    same time be consistent with the physical evidence.  The NHTSA report
    goes on to conclude that `pedal misapplication' by the vehicle operator
    is probably the cause.
--
richard welty        518-393-7228       [e-mail]
``Nothing good has ever been reported about the full rotation of
  a race car about either its pitch or roll axis''  -- Carroll Smith
Xref: bloom-picayune.mit.edu comp.robotics:3456 news.answers:3868
Newsgroups: comp.robotics,news.answers
Path: bloom-picayune.mit.edu!snorkelwacker.mit.edu!news.media.mit.edu!micro-heart-of-gold.mit.edu!uw-beaver!cornell!rochester!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!nivek
From: [e-mail] (Kevin Dowling)
Subject: comp.robotics Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) part 1/2
Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Followup-To: poster
Summary: This posting contains a list of Frequently Asked Questions
     and their answers about robotics. It should be read by anyone
     who wishes to post to the comp.robotics newsgroup
Sender: [e-mail] (Usenet News System)
Supersedes: <[e-mail]>
Nntp-Posting-Host: j.gp.cs.cmu.edu
Reply-To: [e-mail]
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1992 15:40:00 GMT
Approved: [e-mail]
Expires: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 15:39:20 GMT
Lines: 916

Archive-name: robotics-faq/part1
Last-modified: 10/26/92


This is part 1 of 2 of the comp.robotics Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) list.
This FAQ addresses commonly asked questions relating to robotics.

Changes, additions, comments, suggestions and questions to:
    [e-mail]
aka:     Kevin Dowling
         Robotics Institute
    Carnegie Mellon University
    Pittsburgh, PA 15213
____________________________________________________________________________
Changes since last posting:
Lots of updates and additions.
I've added a Books Category.
One suggestion was to add robotics paper citations - but I think
this might be too much.
____________________________________________________________________________


Topics:

Part 1
    Professional organizations
    Conference listings
    Publications

    Mobile robot companies
    Manipulator companies

    Organizations doing robotics
    Graduate Programs in Robotics

Part 2
    Sensors
    Suppliers and sources for Parts
    Hero Robots
    Puma Manipulators
    Simulators
    Real-Time Operating Systems

    Acknowledgements

____________________________________________________________________________
Robotics Related Organizations:

IEEE
Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers
Service Center
445 Hoes Lane
Piscataway, NJ 08854-4150
[phone]
A large organization with hundreds of publications including journals,
transactions, Spectrum, sponsoring conferences, workshops and meetings.

Society of Manufacturing Engineers, (SME)
One SME Drive
PO Box 930
Dearborn, MI  48121
[phone]

American Society of Mechanical Engineers, (ASME)
345 E. 47th Street
New York, NY 10017
Mechanical Engineering magazine, like the IEEE's Spectrum, is an
excellent general publication on aspects of mechanical engineering.
There are often publications on robotics and the ASME sponsors a
number of other publications and conferences that are relevant to
robotics.

National Service Robots Association (NSRA)
900 Victors Way
PO Box 3724
Ann Arbor, MI 48106
[phone]

Robotics Industry Association (RIA)
(same address as NSRA)

SPIE (The International Society for Optical Engineering)
P.O.Box 10
Bellingham, Washington 98227-0010.
They have publications, meetings and Conferences in the
field of Intelligent robots, Mobile robots, teleoperation,
Machine vision, .... etc.

Utility/Manufacturer Robot Users group (UMRUG)
Contact:
Harry T. Roman
Principal Engineer - Research
MC: 16-H)
Public Service Electric and Gas Company
80 Park Plaza
PO Box 570
Newark, NJ 07101
[phone]

Advanced Robot Technology Research Association (Japan)
Kikai-shinko Bldg
3-5-8 Shiba-Kohen, Minato-ku, Tokyo
[phone]
fax [phone]
Has joint research programs with member companies.
Members are 20 or so Japanese companies including:
Ishikawajima-Harima, Oki Electric, Kawasaki Heavy Industry, Kobe
Steel, Komatsu, Sumitomo Electric Industries, Toshiba, JGC, NEC,
Hitachi, Fanuc, Fujitsu, Fuji, Matshushita Research Institute, Mitsui,
Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Mitsubishi Electric, Yaskawa

Center for Autonomous and Man-controlled Robotic and Sensing Systems
Charles Jacobus, CAMRSS director
ERIM
PO Box 8618
Ann Arbor, MI 48107
[phone] X2457
Member companies include: Ball Aerospace, Coulter Electronics, ERIM,
Fairchild, Ford Aerospace, Geospectra, Grumman, Industrial Technology
Institute, KMS Fusion, Michigan State, UofM.

AIAA
American Insitute of Aeronautics and Astronautics
370 L'Enfant Promenade, SW
Washington, DC 20024
[phone]
Technical Information Service [phone]
Conferences and publications, several cover automation technologies
for servicing on the ground and in space as well as exploration.
__________________________________________________________________________
Robotics Conferences:

Proceedings should be available in most good libraries or by
interlibrary loan.

Annual Conference of IEEE International Conference on Robotics and Automation
    May 2-7, 1993 at the Atlanta Hilton and Towers, Atlanta, Georgia
    Four copies oof each paper sent by October 2, 1992 to:
        John Y. S. Luh
        Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering
        Clemson University
        Clemson, SC 29364, USA
    Authors will be notified of acceptance by Jan 3, 1993
    Final papers due for proceedings by February 3, 1993

Annual Conference on Intelligent Robots and Systems

Annual Symposium on Industrial Robots

Biannual Symposium International Symposium of Robotics Research

Biannual Autonomous Intelligent Systems

American Association for Artificial Intellignece (AAAI)
    San Jose, July 1992
    There will be a robot competition this year. Contact Han
    Tallis at [e-mail]


___________________________________________________________________________
Robotics Publications:

    IEEE Transactions on Systems, Man and Cybernetics
    IEEE Transactions on Robotics and Automation
    IEEE Control Systems Magazine
    IEEE Computer Magazine
    IEEN Transactions on PAMI
    IEEE Transactions on Industrial Electronics
    Cost: Have to join IEEE and then subscribe. Student rates are low.

    International Journal of Robotics Research
    MIT Press
    28 Carleton Street
    Cambridge, MA 02142
    Cost: $50/year to individuals

    Journal of Intelligent & Robotic Systems
    Three issues per volume, $58.50 per volume (individual)
    Kluwer Academic Publishers Group
    PO Box 322,
    3300 AH Dordrecht,
    The Netherlands
    --in the US:
    PO Box 358
    Accord Station,
    Hingham, MA 02018-0358

    Robotics Today
    Published by:
    Society of Manufacturing Engineers
    One SME Drive
    PO Box 930
    Dearborn, MI 48121
    [phone]

    Robotics World
    The end-user's magazine of flexible automation
    Published quarterly
    Communication Channels
    6255 Barfield Road
    Atlanta, GA 30328
    [phone]
    They also publish the Robotics World Directory $49.95

    Robot (Japanese)
    Industrial Robots and Application Systems
    published bimonthly
    Japan Industrial Robot Association (JIRA)
    Kikai-Shinko Building
    3-5-8, Shiba-Kohen,
    Mina To-ku
    Tokyo, Japan
    Tokyo [phone], fax [phone]

    Robotica
    International Journal of Information, Education and Research
    in Robotics and Artificial Intelligence
    Quarterly publication, US $179 per year!
    Cambridge University Press
    The Edinburgh Building
    Shaftesbury Road,
    Cambridge CB2 2RU (UK)
    in the US:
    Cambridge University Press
    Journals Department
    40 West 20th Street
    New York, NY 10011-4211

    Industrial Robot
    Quarterly, $145/year
    MCB University Press Ltd.
    62 Toller Lane
    Bradford, West Yorkshire
    England, BD8 9BY
    (44) 274 499821, fax [phone]
    --in the US
    MCB University Press Ltd.
    PO Box 10812
    Birmingham, AL 35201-0812
    [phone] (toll free US and Canada)